Sunday 30 March 2008

Auntie empties her wardrobe

Classic comedies, costume dramas, historical epics, feature films – the BBC's costume department catered for them all. And yesterday the corporation sold its entire collection reports Jonathan Brown...

From the tuxedos of the BBC's first announcers to the white-leather biker's jacket worn by Det Insp Alex Drake in the time-travel drama Ashes to Ashes , the BBC costume archive has for decades offered a fascinating insight into the shifting sartorial tastes of the nation and a compelling cultural record of television history. Yesterday, however, the million outfits that formed Auntie's dressing-up box were sold to Angels, the Oscar-winning costume house, for an undisclosed fee. The sale brings to an end a prolonged period of uncertainty that has been hanging over the costume department since it ceased trading in February after the collapse of an original sell-off deal.

The BBC hailed the sale as in the best interests of the licence-fee payer and said the cash would now be channelled back into programme-making, and would offer a valuable resource for UK film and television industry. For the purchaser, Tim Angel, who runs his family's famous West End costume business, it is the culmination of a career spanning 40 years. He believes the continuing taste for TV nostalgia, highlighted by the success of dramas such as Ashes to Ashes and Life on Mars, makes the purchase a prudent investment. "I anticipate the stock from the latter part of the 20th century will become more popular over the next few years as TV and film-makers increasingly turn to the Sixties, Seventies and Eighties in which to set quality dramas," he said.

The BBC costume department began life in the 1930s as a small store in its offices. Over the next half-century, it ballooned into an operation that was based at a vast warehouse in Harlesden, north-west London, where costumes were stored in nearly two miles of hanging space. It hired out 15,000 outfits a year and had an annual turnover of £1.3m. During that time, BBC staff dressed generations of performers from television's "Golden Age" in a huge range of costumes, from the togas and sandals of I, Claudius to Del Boy's flat cap and dodgy whistles in Only Fools and Horses. The department held sales every few years that were keenly attended by armies of Dr Who fans and lovers of tutus, frilly corsets and bloomers. One such auction in 1992 netted nearly £100,000 when Sir John Gielgud's fur coat, Paul Daniels' silver jumpsuit and a majestic velvet number sported by Glenda Jackson in Elizabeth R went under the hammer.

But last year, with mounting pressure to make budget cuts, the BBC decided to close the door on its celebrated wardrobe, which had become a separate commercial entity accepting commissions from independent production companies. Mr Angel will make his first foray today to the site in north-west London to inspect the racks of clothes which now form part of his vast costume empire. His company is now the UK's, and perhaps the world's, leading provider of theatrical outfits and employs 120 staff. It won its first Oscar for costume design in 1948 for Laurence Olivier's Hamlet, and added a further 29 Academy Awards for dressing stars in such films as Titanic, The English Patient and Memoirs of a Geisha. It now has the duty of keeping the costume collection safe from predators. "We are McDonald's and Kentucky Fried Chicken to moths," he said. To deal with the threat, Angels shuts up shop for one weekend each month to spray its entire collection with insecticide.

It was also confirmed yesterday that the BBC's wig department, home to 12,000 hairpieces, was to be bought as part of a management buyout led by the veteran stylist Philippa Devon. Mike Southgate, chief executive of BBC Resources, welcomed the deal. "We're delighted that the collection will continue to be available as a production commodity going forward," he said.

I, Claudius

This 1976 dramatisation of Robert Graves' classic novel set in the murderous ancient Roman court of Claudius set new standards for programme-makers. It also made household names of Derek Jacobi, Brian Blessed, John Hurt and Sian Phillips, who may well have been responsible for the rise in risqué toga parties.

Richard Baker

The former naval officer became the first person to appear on the BBC television news. He made his debut at 7.30pm on 5 July 1954 behind a view of Nelson's Column. His suit was provided courtesy of the BBC's then embryonic costume department at TV Centre.

Trigger Happy TV

Dom Joly's hidden camera television show poked fun at the world of modern manners. The show, which saw Joly dress up as everything from a traffic warden to a snail, spawned versions across the world.

Goodness Gracious Me

Originally a radio comedy, it made the transition to television in 1998 bringing a groundbreaking British-Asian perspective to prime-time schedules.

The Queen

All conquering recreation of the Royal Family's most woeful hour offers a perfect view on the styles and trends of Blair's Britain in the late 1990s.

Elizabeth R

Before a career in politics, Glenda Jackson was one of Britain's biggest acting stars. It is said some 200 gowns were created for her in her role as the Virgin Queen, some too heavy to walk in.

Blackadder

Rowan Atkinson's scheming Tudor courtier and his hapless sidekick Baldrick (Tony Robinson) scooted through the centuries, swapping doublets and ruffs for First World War khaki in the final series.

Only Fools and Horses

With his penchant for polo necks and medallions, Del Boy Trotter, helped to elevate John Sullivan's TV series to the pinnacle of popular comedy

League of Gentlemen

This TV and radio award-winner was once described as the "thinking man's Little Britain"

Munich

The BBC provided more than 400 outfits and 3,500 items of clothing for Steven Spielberg's film about the aftermath of the killing of 11 Israeli athletes at the Munich Olympicsin 1972. Suits, shoes, hats, knitwear, belts and briefcases were supplied by the BBC.

Pride and Prejudice

The heaving cleavages in this mid-90s TV bodice-ripper prompted bra-maker Berlei to apologise for claiming to have provided the equipment to enhance the Bennett girls' dazzling décolletage. The BBC had sourced the "historically authentic soft corset" in-house.

 

Copyright 2007 ID Media Inc, All Right Reserved. Crafted by Nurudin Jauhari